Recipes
Acciughe in Salsa Verde
Anchovy Fillets in Green Sauce
Perhaps more than any other, this recipe reminds me of my youth, as Piedmont is the region where it is most liked and eaten. Some friends and I would go on outings into the mountains or nearby villages, and we would invariably end up in a small inn or cafe for lunch. Here we would devour huge quantities of anchovies in green sauce, served with slices of home-made salami and slices of succulent fresh bread, all washed down with a locally produced Barbera wine. Few meals have remained so clearly in my mind!
Agnello con Finocchio al Marsala
Lamb with Fennel and Marsala
After visiting the amazing Florio Company, one of the oldest producers of Marsala in Sicily, and tasting some of its rare vintages, I appreciated how suitable this strong wine was not only for making scaloppini and zabaglione but also for partnering with lamb. This dish could be made with rabbit or chicken, too. Leafy wild fennel grows in abundance in Sicily but it can be replaced here with bulb fennel. The combination of flavours is unusual but very good.
Arrosto di Maiale
Roast Pork with Garlic
For this recipe it is best to use the hind leg of the pig (otherwise known as the ham) with its delicious skin. The skin is cut here to let the fat escape and to enable the meat to absorb all the flavours of the fat and seasonings. And, on top of that, it's delicious to eat!
Bagna Cauda
Hot Garlic and Anchovy Dip
The Piedmontese love garlic and anchovy, and this is a wonderful combination of both, to be served in a fondue dish in the middle of the table, or in little individual pots each with a candle underneath. My recipe is milder than usual-the garlic isn't too pungent-so that everyone can enjoy it.
The vegetables for dipping should be very fresh and tender. Choose from celery, Jerusalem artichokes, small globe artichoke, cardoons, yellow and red peppers, cucumber, fennel, radicchio and asparagus. Trim and cut into small pieces.
Brodo di Carne o di Gallina
Beef or Chicken Stock
Beef or chicken stocks form the basis of most Italian minestre and thick soups, risottos and other dishes. One of the most classic of Italian soups, 'pastina in brodo', consists of nothing more than a good stock in which small pastas such as telline or small stuffed shapes are cooked. A sprinkling of Parmesan is the final touch. And the equally famous stracciatella whisks eggs into stock, along with fresh herbs.
Camoscio in Salmi
Venison Steak with Wild Mushrooms
This is a typical dish of the Aosta valley region, where it is still possible to hunt deer with a licence that is rather hard to come by. In the rest of Europe it is much easier to find venison, as deer are farmed now in many places. In Italy it is traditional to serve venison with freshly made polenta, which transforms it into a truly magnificent dish.
Caponata
Sicilian Vegetable Stew
This is a typical Sicilian dish based on vegetables, above all on aubergines. The vegetables are fried and then simmered in a sweet-and-sour sauce. The origins of the word caponata are unclear, although some say it is Catalan. It could derive from the Latin caupona, meaning osteria (bar), where you would always find a caponata ready to eat. Whatever its origin, this dish, served cold as an antipasto, is now popular all over Italy. It can be eaten warm as an accompaniment to meat and poultry or used as a pasta sauce.
Caponata di Verdure
Vegetable Caponata
This is an alternative version of the famous Sicilian caponata di melanzane, which is based on aubergines. Many more vegetables are included here, resulting in an excellent dish.
Carne all'Albese
Beef Alba Style
Rocket's mustardy, slightly bitter flavour livens up many salads and other foods which might otherwise be bland. Rocket is an essential accompaniment to carpaccio, the famous raw beef dish which originated in the legendary Harry's Bar in Venice. Carpaccio is also eaten a lot in Alba in Piedmont where, with a topping of thinly sliced truffles, the dish is known as meat all'albese, 'Alba style'. In the absence of truffle, you can use slivers of Parmesan as here, and a few drops of truffle oil.
Cassata Semifredda
Sicilian Ice Cream
This is the easier ice-cream and candied fruit version of cassata, as opposed to the elaborate, rich sponge, which is more time consuming. My former head chef, Andrea Cavaliere perfected this cassata recipe. It is semifreddo, with a superb soft texture.